How to Choose Kitchen Cabinets When Remodeling.

The Straight Answer: Start With Your Budget and Timeline

Here's what you need to know upfront: kitchen cabinets will eat up 30 to 40 percent of your entire remodeling budget. That's not a suggestion, that's just how the math works out on most projects.

Your choice comes down to three paths. Stock cabinets ship fast (think 1 to 2 weeks) and cost less, but you're stuck with standard sizes. Semi-custom cabinets give you more options for around 4 to 8 weeks of lead time. Custom cabinets let you design exactly what you want, but plan on 8 to 16 weeks and a bigger price tag.

The right choice depends on your timeline, your budget, and how your kitchen actually functions. Not how you think it should function, how it actually does. Let's break down what matters.

Stock vs. Semi-Custom vs. Custom Cabinets: Know the Difference

Most homeowners don't realize these three categories aren't just about price. They're about control, flexibility, and what you're willing to wait for.

Stock kitchen cabinets come in standard sizes (usually 3-inch increments). Walk into a big box store, pick your style, load them up. You'll pay somewhere between $60 and $200 per linear foot. The boxes are already built and sitting in a warehouse.

Installation can happen within weeks of ordering. The catch? Your kitchen needs to fit those standard sizes, or you'll end up with filler strips everywhere.

Semi-custom cabinets bridge the gap. Same basic construction as stock, but with options. You can modify depths, add rollouts, choose from more door styles and finishes. Expect $150 to $650 per linear foot. Lead times stretch to 6 to 10 weeks on average. This is where most kitchen remodels land, honestly. You get enough flexibility without the custom cabinet price tag.

Custom cabinets mean exactly what you want, built to your exact specifications. Odd angles? Not a problem. Ceiling-height pantries? Sure. Specialized storage for that mixer you actually use? Done. You're looking at $500 to $1,500+ per linear foot, and those 10 to 14 week lead times can stretch if there's a backlog at the shop. But if your kitchen has weird dimensions or you need something specific, custom is worth considering.

Material Choices That Actually Matter

Alright, let's talk about what your cabinets are made from. This affects both cost and longevity.

The cabinet box is the structure you don't see. Plywood is the gold standard. It holds screws better, handles moisture without falling apart, and lasts. Particleboard works fine in dry climates for budget builds, but one plumbing leak and you're replacing everything. MDF (medium-density fiberboard) splits the difference, decent strength and smooth for painted finishes.

The door and drawer fronts are what everyone sees. Solid wood (maple, cherry, oak) looks great and can be refinished down the road. It'll run you more, but it's legitimate craftsmanship. Thermofoil (a vinyl coating over MDF) costs less and resists moisture, but you can't change the color later and heat can peel it. Laminate is durable and cheap, but it screams "builder grade" unless you go high-end.

Here's something nobody mentions: wood moves. It expands and contracts with humidity. That's not a defect, that's just wood being wood. Factor that in if you live somewhere with serious seasonal changes.

Layout and Configuration: Function First

This is where most people get it wrong. They pick cabinets that look good in the showroom but don't match how they actually cook.

Start with your work triangle (sink, stove, refrigerator). You want these three points close enough that you're not walking a marathon making dinner, but spread out enough that two people can work without colliding. Most functional kitchens keep this triangle between 12 and 25 feet total.

Base cabinets are standard 24 inches deep and 34.5 inches tall (36 inches with countertop). You can go deeper for islands (30 or 36 inches) to create more workspace and storage. Don't just default to drawers everywhere or doors everywhere. Mix them based on what you're storing.

• Deep drawers work great for pots, pans, and small appliances

  
  

• Pull-out shelves in base cabinets eliminate the black hole in the back

  
  

• Corner cabinets need lazy Susans or pull-out units to be useful

  
  

• Drawer dividers aren't optional if you want organized utensils

  
  

Upper cabinets typically run 12 to 15 inches deep and 30 to 42 inches tall. Going to the ceiling (42-inch uppers or stacked cabinets) eliminates that dust-collecting gap on top. You'll need a step stool for the highest shelves, but you gain storage. If you're over 6 feet tall or under 5'2", adjust your upper cabinet height accordingly. Standard heights assume average, and you're not installing for average, you're installing for you.

Hardware, Hinges, and the Details That Add Up

Here's the thing: hardware fails before the cabinet box does. Cheap hinges sag. Flimsy drawer slides bind up. This stuff matters.

Drawer slides come in three types. Side-mount is basic and cheap. Undermount hides the hardware and handles heavy loads (think 75 to 100 pounds). Soft-close adds $15 to $30 per drawer but stops the slamming. If you're keeping these cabinets for 15 years, spend the extra money.

Hinges should be adjustable (European-style, usually). They let you tweak doors after installation when things inevitably shift. Self-closing or soft-close hinges run about $5 to $10 per hinge. You need at least two per door, three for tall doors.

Handles and knobs are where personality shows up. Budget $3 to $15 per piece for decent quality. Oil-rubbed bronze is still popular. Brushed nickel is cleaner. Matte black is everywhere right now (who would've thought). Make sure the mounting holes match your cabinet pre-drilling, or you're patching and re-drilling on site.

One more thing: if you're doing custom cabinets, confirm your hardware choices early. Some shops pre-drill, some don't. Finding out on installation day is too late.

The Budget Reality: What You'll Actually Spend

Of course, none of this comes free. Let's talk real numbers.

For a typical 10x10 kitchen (standard measurement for comparison), you're looking at:

• Stock cabinets: $2,000 to $8,000 for boxes only

  
  

• Semi-custom cabinets: $5,000 to $20,000 for boxes only

  
  

• Custom cabinets: $15,000 to $45,000+ for boxes only

  
  

Add installation labor (figure $50 to $150 per cabinet depending on complexity), countertops, backsplash, hardware, and suddenly your $8,000 cabinet job is a $25,000 kitchen remodel.

Material delays happen. A lot. Lead times I mentioned earlier? Those are best-case scenarios when the mill has your wood in stock and the finish shop isn't backed up. Add 2 to 4 weeks of buffer if you're on a deadline. Cabinet delays push back countertop templating, which delays installation, which delays plumbing and electrical finals, which delays your final inspection. It's dominoes.

If you're financing, know that most cabinet shops want 50 percent down when you order. That's not negotiable. They're buying materials and blocking production time.

Measuring and Planning: Get This Right First

Wrong measurements kill kitchen projects. You can't fudge cabinet dimensions like you can with paint colors.

Measure your space three times at different heights. Walls aren't plumb, floors aren't level, and that matters when you're installing boxes. Note where your plumbing lines come through, where electrical outlets sit, and where ductwork runs. That cabinet you want? It might be exactly where the vent stack lives.

Check your ceiling height in multiple spots. Older homes can vary by an inch or more across the room. That affects your upper cabinet height and whether you can do stacked cabinets.

Windows, doors, and appliances create constraints. You need clearance for door swings, space for the refrigerator to open, and room for the dishwasher door to drop down. Standard clearances exist for a reason (usually 1 to 3 inches on each side of appliances).

Here's something permit offices care about: cabinet depth can't block egress windows in some jurisdictions. Islands need specific clearances for walkways (42 to 48 inches is typical). If you're doing structural work or moving plumbing, you'll need permits. Most cabinet swaps don't require permits, but verify with your local building department before you start.

Installation Considerations: DIY or Hire Out?

Stock kitchen cabinets are DIY-friendly if you're handy with a level and a drill. Semi-custom gets trickier. Custom cabinets? You're probably hiring pros unless you've done this before.

DIY installation saves $3,000 to $6,000 in labor on an average kitchen. You'll need a laser level, shims, clamps, and patience. Expect two to four full days for a basic kitchen, longer if you're working alone. Upper cabinets go in first (they're easier to position without base cabinets in the way). Start in a corner, work outward, check level constantly.

Professional installation costs more but includes experience with problem-solving on site. Walls that aren't straight, floors that slope, plumbing that's slightly off: these are daily problems for installers. A good crew finishes most kitchens in one to three days.

Either way, cabinets install before countertops. Countertop fabricators need to template off installed cabinets to get accurate measurements. Don't let anyone tell you different.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Let me save you some headaches.

Don't sacrifice storage for style. Those open shelves look great on Pinterest but collect dust and grease in real life. A few open shelves? Fine. An entire wall? You'll regret it.

Don't ignore lighting inside cabinets. Under-cabinet lighting is standard now, but interior cabinet lighting (especially in deep pantries) makes everything more functional. Add it during the remodel, not after when you're fishing wires.

Don't forget about ventilation. If your upper cabinets run to the ceiling, make sure you can still vent your range hood properly. Code requires specific CFM ratings based on your cooktop.

Don't buy cabinets before finalizing your appliances. Cabinet dimensions need to match appliance widths exactly. Ordering cabinets for a 30-inch range and then finding a 36-inch range you love? That's expensive to fix.

Don't skip the sample doors. Most suppliers offer sample door fronts for $10 to $50. Get them. Look at them in your actual kitchen lighting. That cherry finish might look orange under your LED bulbs.

Finish Options and Long-Term Durability

Your finish choice affects maintenance and longevity. Painted cabinets show wear at edges and corners. Touch-ups are possible but rarely match perfectly after a year or two of UV exposure and cleaning. Stained wood hides wear better and can be refreshed.

Matte finishes hide fingerprints. Gloss finishes show every smudge but wipe clean easily. Satin sits in the middle and works for most kitchens.

If you're doing painted custom cabinets, specify a catalyzed conversion varnish or similar hard finish. Standard latex paint, even cabinet-grade, chips easier. Quality finishes cost $20 to $40 more per door but last three times longer.

Wood species affects both look and price. Maple is smooth and takes paint beautifully. Oak has prominent grain and costs less. Cherry darkens over time (that's normal, not a defect). Hickory has dramatic grain variation. Match the wood to your finish goals.

Your Next Steps: Making the Decision

Start by figuring out your true budget. Add 15 to 20 percent for overages and changes, because they happen. Decide whether your timeline allows for custom cabinets or if you need something faster.

Visit showrooms, but bring measurements and photos of your current kitchen. Ask specific questions about lead times, deposit requirements, and what happens if something arrives damaged. Get everything in writing.

Consider your home's value too. If you're in a $200,000 house, spending $50,000 on custom cabinets probably doesn't make financial sense unless you plan to stay forever. If you're remodeling a $600,000 kitchen in a $1.2 million home, quality cabinets are expected.

Wrapping This Up

Choosing kitchen cabinets isn't about picking the prettiest door style. It's about matching your budget to your timeline, understanding what you're actually buying (box construction, not just door fronts), and planning for how you use your kitchen every day.

Stock cabinets work great for straightforward layouts and tight budgets. Semi-custom cabinets give you flexibility without extreme lead times. Custom cabinets deliver exactly what you want if you've got the time and money.

Quality materials (plywood boxes, solid wood or high-grade thermofoil fronts, soft-close hardware) cost more initially but pay off over years of use. Proper planning (accurate measurements, realistic timelines, permit awareness) prevents expensive mistakes.

Get multiple quotes, verify lead times, and don't rush this decision. Your cabinets will be in this kitchen for 15 to 25 years if you choose well. Make it count.